I was going to post this in the "close calls" thread of a few years ago but it brought back so many childhood memories I decided to post it here and leave the close call to the end of the post.
We moved to Norcal from Glendale ( I went to R.D. White Elementary for a year and a half) on New Years Eve 1960 and arrived New Years Day 1961 (no Hwy. 5 then) we either did 99 or 101. My parents were schoolteachers and we visited their folks in Socal on all the school vacations we got.
My grandmother (moms side) was "well to do" and built a home on 9th Ave. in South Laguna in the early 60's. So this was the first beach I spent a lot of time at. I remember every once and while we go in to Laguna Beach proper and visit the main beach (passing an Alpa Beta super market on the way). For a treat we would go to the Jolly Roger Restaurant and I would get a burger with a plastic sword holding it together, sword fight with little brother! Then most years we go to the Arts Festival on the Laguna Canyon Highway.
Which reminds me of all the orange groves on the freeway before getting to the Laguna Canyon Exit.
I was a tiny place and in about '65 she moved out of L.A. all together and bought a place on Bluff Drive here.
It was here that I spent my summers body surfing between the two rock formations and learned to swim in the ocean. Once I got got in a rip past the breakers and was dog paddling, biding my time, when the life guard decided to come get me. I was embarrassed, being 14 or 15 at the time, but he insisted I grab his buoy thingy and I relented and he towed me in (not the close call). In the early seventies some body jumped my grandmothers fence, her garage was right on the Coast Highway, looking for something to steal and she no longer felt secure. (I don't even want to think about what she got for it then and what its worth now). So she moved down the road to a gated community.
It was here in 1972 that she made me park backwards in her driveway because I had a McGovern bumper sticker (I'd just turned 18 and could vote) and she didn't want her neighbors to know she had a stupid grandson. It was also here that I had my close call body surfing. It had to be off season because there were no life guards on duty. It was normal 3 to 4 foot breakers when all of a sudden I noticed a rogue 3 wave set of 18 to 20 footers. These were at least 3 times my height and having body surfed most of my life I don't believe I'm exaggerating at all. So I had a decision to make, try to swim out past all of them or take the 1st one in and hope to avoid the other two. I took the 1st one in and got slammed into the sand. Waves that big suck all the water out from the beach to keep their size and after a 18 to 20 slam dunk I had maybe 2 feet of water, tops, to cushion my fall. I was lucky to land on my shoulder and not my neck. Guess what happened next. I tried to get out of range but all that water was being sucked out for the next wave and I couldn't make any headway and got slammed again, without the 20 foot drop this time. Rinse, Repeat for wave number 3.
So long story short, I miss summers at the Beach.